Free Smocking Plate: On the Farm

Posted by Claire on Aug 17 2012

It’s that time of year – the summer is winding down, the evenings are cooler and thoughts are turning to fall and the start of a new school year.

For me, fall is also the time when we take in our local fair. It’s an annual tradition for us – the boys, big and small, grouse (quietly) while I drag them through the craft displays. Jay and the boys drag me through the equipment sheds and the animal barns (I don’t get the appeal. Did the tractors have big tires last year? Yup. Will they have big tires next year? Yup. So, we’re here why exactly?? :))

Our favourite event though is the demo derby. Jay use to race in them when he was a teenager and I’d never seen one until he and I started going out. Now I totally get the appeal and it’s the one event we never miss. Crash! Boom!

So in honour of fall fairs everywhere, here’s a fun picture smocking plate, “On the Farm” to celebrate. It’s got a harvest, a big red barn and a tractor (with big tires!) There are embroidered bullion cabbages (there’s a phrase you don’t hear every day!), hay in the mow and some fresh corn, ready to pick. You can download the smocking plate by clicking here. It prints to an 8 1/2 x 14″ sheet.

DIRECTIONS

Design is worked over 16 rows (14 + 2 holding). There are 170 pleats in the design. Backsmock rows 1-10, plus both holding rows before beginning smocking design

Smocking
1. Work a row of cable in 801 across row 11, starting with a under cable. Repeat this cable on rows 12, 13 and 14.
2. Work turret stitch between rows 11 and 12 in 434, so that the over and under stitches just touch the cabled rows. Tip: Turret stitch is worked like a full space wave but it is compressed – there will be no pleats between the upper and lower stitches .
3. Work a second row of turret stitch between rows 13 and 14.
4. Referring to the graph, work the barn in five strands of 347 and B5200. Work the centre of the haymow in 310. The sides of the door and the sides of the haymow opening are worked as spools and bars respectively, to eliminate the need for multiple half stitches.
5. Stitch the two stalks of corn. The stalks are worked as bars. The leaves and the ear of the corn are stacked cables worked in 703 and 3078.
6. Work the tractor, referring to the graph for colour changes and stitch placement.
7. Work the final stalk of corn in the same manner as the first.

Embroidered Details
8. Stitch the barn roof with a line of cable stitching, using three strands of 310.
9. Outline the barn door and the haymow with backstitch, using 1-2 strands 310.
10. Make the hay using two strands 3822. Stitch random, overlapping straight stitches until you are satisfied with the density.
11. Work 10 bullion roses between row 12 and 13, spacing them evenly. Use two strands of 703. The centre two bullions should be 2 4-wrap bullions; the second row should be 5 6-8 wrap bullions and the outside row should be 6 10-12 wrap bullions.
12. Work two 20-25 wrap bullions on either side of the corn using two strands of 703. Tack the bullions so that they curve in a gentle ‘s’ shape.
13. Stitch the engine details with five 10-12 wrap bullions in 317. The tractor seat is a 12-14 wrap bullion in 310. The steering column is chain stitch in 317, using one or two strands. The steering wheel is a 10-12 wrap bullion in 801. Work 8 2-strand french knots inside the yellow portion of the large back tire.

Remove gathering threads and block completed design. Insert into garment using preferred method.

As always, you are welcome to share this design with friends, but please, remember to credit my website and don’t resell the plate.

Summer Quilting Update

Posted by Claire on Jul 22 2012

Despite being swamped by home renos (and we’re at the messy, everything everywhere, why did we ever start this job in the first place stage right now, and a long, long way away from totally forgot how much work it really was stand and admire and pat yourself on the back stage) I managed to get Plaid Stars pieced and ready to go to Alison’s for quilting. The pattern comes from Simple Quilts & Sewing Winter 2011.

It’s a nice blend of traditional (the colours and the block style) with a less fussy, more modern interpretation. There’s no sashing, and that immediately makes it a less formal quilt. As I mentioned in my last post, I reinterpreted the quilt in cotton, rather than flannel and I’m really glad I did so.

It went together very quickly and after the long drawn out process that David’s guitar quilts presented, it made a nice change.

The stars were the trickiest part. Well, not really tricky. Just fiddly, since I really wanted the points to meet up neatly. Pretty good, eh?

I also really paid attention to my seam allowances because I wanted to minimize bulk, given the busy sashings and all the seam intersections, and I have to say, with a few exceptions, it really worked out well and the back looks as nice as the front.

I still need to secure the edges with a straight stitch before it goes to be long arm quilted. Next week, it should be on its way. Hoorah!

So what’s next on the agenda, not counting the smocking and the fall sewing and the Hallowe’en costumes and the magazine projects and all the other stuff that I’ve got to squeeze in? 🙂

This:

Spring Bouquet applique quilt

Ain’t it purdy?

It’s Edyta Sitar’s “Spring Bouquet” from Laundry Basket Quilts, from the brand-new batik line “Over the Rainbow”.

I’ve never made an applique quilt before, although I’ve done the technique on a small scale. But who needs to walk before they can run? Phh…that’s for people with sense and sanity. I saw this quilt on Pinterest and fell IN LOVE. Apparently, demand has been so exorbitant that it’s been delayed getting into the shops so I’ve been hounding the local quilt shop since May. Is it in yet? Is it in yet? Is it in yet? I’m pretty sure my number will be blocked soon but I WANT IT! NOW! NOW! NOW!

Ahem. As I said, I’m looking forward to starting this new project. It’s going to be a gift for a close friend’s wedding next year, so I need to get cracking.

What about you? Any wildly ambitious projects on the agenda or more of the same old, same old?

DIY Bishop in July Issue of Sew Beautiful

Posted by Claire on Jun 12 2012

My copy of the July/August Issue of Sew Beautiful just arrived and in it is a fun variation on a smocked bishop that I designed.

It’s a very casual, easy sew project and because it is smocked with honeycomb smocking, you don’t need a pleater. Seriously, even if you aren’t a smocker or always thought it would be too darn hard to learn, this is the dress for you.

Heck, just because I’m nice there isn’t even a pattern – the dress is marked and cut directly from the cloth. Easy peasy, lemon squeezy!

However, despite the thorough editing process, there’s are two small typos that you should be aware of in the instructions.

When you are marking in preparation for the honeycomb smocking, the directions have you mark the vertical and horizontal lines first and then cut a narrow wedge from the top edge of the front piece to compensate for the hem dip. This is out of order and will cause problems during the smocking. Instead, mark the vertical lines on the front and back, then cut the wedge from the dress, then mark the horizontal lines. Make sure as you mark the horizontal lines that they are perpendicular to the top edge. On the back, they will run straight across but on the front they will follow the lowered front, which now has a slight angle. If you do it the way the magazine article specifies, you will end up cutting off some of the dots you need to form the honey comb and causing yourself needless frustration.

During the application of the neck binding, it lists the length of the bindings a 17″ (sz2), 16″ (Sz 3) and 15″ (sz 4) – the lengths should be 15″ (sz 2) and 17″ (sz 4) – the shortest length for the smallest size, the longest for the largest.

And for those of you who garden, I’ve also got a free pattern in May/June issue of Creative
Machine Embroidery.

It’s a vintage inspired one piece gardening apron made of canvas. It’s great not only for working in the garden but for any of those messy jobs that just seem to get grime everywhere – spring cleaning and scrubbing the floors are always messy jobs.

I’ve Passed Smocking Level 1

Posted by Claire on May 24 2012

Well, hoorah for me. I’ve just heard from the PTS (that’s the Powers that Smock, btw :)) that I’ve passed Smocking Level 1 in the SAGA Artisan program. For those folks who aren’t familiar with the artisan program, it’s a self-directed, self-paced skills program, that allows you to earn points for workshops, publications, certain competitions and the like for skills including smocking, heirloom sewing and embroidery. It took me about two years to complete the first level, but I wasn’t rushing and since I’m out here in the boondocks, I didn’t earn many points from workshops, which might have sped the process up.

Here’s the sampler that I completed as part of the evaluation process.

I’m not doing this for any specific goal but rather for the personal satisfaction I gain from it. Keeps it fun. It’s still a bit nerve wracking, making sure every stitch is as perfect as I can make it and that I don’t catch any gathering threads and my ends are all less than 1/4″. Suffice it say I’m not usually quite so vigilant on my personal projects – it’s sort of like being a show horse, standing in a ring, under the glaring lights, while your flaws are highlighted in excruciating detail.

Just call me Northern Smocker, I guess. 🙂

The parameters of the sampler are set out in the Artisan handbook and dictate everything from the size of the fabric and its fiber content to the stitches used on every row. I did get to choose the colours though – I like the bright purples and greens. I think they look very cheerful against the white fabric.

I had to execute outline and stem stitch on row 1, then a cross-over wave stitch below that. Then there were two rows of wave and trellis, which formed a heart shaped band.

The centre of the plate was more complicated. It featured a mirrored cable/trellis combination, plus small accents: a detached chain flower and some light purple flowerettes. Consistency was important and I spent a lot of time making sure all of the elements were exactly the same.

The picture smocked hearts were worked with four strands of floss. The dark colour did make the stitch out a little challenging, since the contrast between the fabric ground and the floss was significant and any unevenness was instantly apparent. But I perservered and I think they’re quite cute.

Finally, I worked a three shaded rows of half space wave and two rows of stacked cable. The gradient is something I really like the look of and I expect I will use it again in other projects, since it’s a very distinctive look.

And in case inquiring minds want to well, inquire, here’s the back of my sampler. Not the most gorgeous thing to look at but then the back of smocking rarely is 🙂

I’ve also worked a gingham sampler, which I hand pleated. There, they’re not looking for smocking stitches so much as the regularity and proper preparation of a more difficult fabric. I actually find hand gathering rather satisfying. You do get a rhythm going – in, out, in, out, pull thread through – that can be quite relaxing. I look forward to seeing what the adjudicators had to say and getting my second level under way.

Free Smocking Plate: Pirate Adventures

Posted by Claire on May 06 2012

Poor boys. They never get their fair share of the creativity, do they? Girls get the dresses and the ribbons and all the pretties. Boys end up with the snips and snails.

But since it’s been ages since I posted a freebie here on the blog, I thought folks with little boys would enjoy this pirate plate. It’s picture smocked, with embroidered details like a skull and crossbones, an ‘x’ to mark the spot and some lovely bunches of coconuts 🙂 You can download the smocking plate by clicking here. It prints to an 8 1/2 x 14″ sheet.

Directions:

Pleat 14 rows (12+2). This design is worked over 170 pleats. Count and tie off the pleats and mark the centre valley before starting the smocking.

1. Backsmock rows 2-9 and 11, plus both holding rows with two strands floss.

2. Beginning with a under cable, work a row of cable stitch across row 1 using three strands of floss. Repeat an identical row of cables across row 10. Work a mirror image row of cables across row 12.

3. To make the waves, come up at pleat 4 a needle width above row 1, and work a three stitch combination (under, over, under) across the row, leaving two pleats between each combination. Repeat on rows 10 and 12, referring to the plate for the starting placement on each row.

4. Follow the chart for the picture smocked elements. All of the picture smocking uses 5 strands of floss. The hull of the pirate ship begins 27 pleats to the left of the centre valley using 869. Horizontal colour changes like the portholes and the skull can be worked in either a multi-needle technique or a block technique, depending on your preference.

5. To stitch the large sail, work down from row 2 1/4 to 3 3/4 in White. When you reach the cross bone details, be alert for the single stitch details and half stitches that form the skull. The arms of the cross bones and the skull’s face will be embroidered after the smocking is complete. Once you have completed the skull, complete the rest of the large sail in white and then stitch the small front sail.

6. The island on the right side begins 11 pleats to the left of the ship. The island on the left side begins 13 pleats from the left edge. Work the sandy bases first using five strands of 822. Then refer to the chart to work the palm fronds in 704 and 905.

7. The mast is worked in satin stitch over two pleats using three strands of 422.

8. Work a 30-35 wrap bullion for the prow of the ship, using two strands of 869. If necessary, tack the bullion to prevent it from moving with one strand of matching floss.

9. The skull’s face is made up of two french knots and a single detached chain for the nose, all using two strands of floss. The arms of the crossbones are stem stitch in 310.

10. The coconuts are three 8 wrap bullions in 869. Work the centre bullion first and then the two bullions on either side.

11. The trunks of the palm trees are worked in chain stitch with two strands of 869 and 1 strand of 422, blended.

12. The ‘X’ in the bottom border is worked between rows 10 1/2 and 11 1/2 using three strands of 817. Beginning 18 pleats from the right edge on row 10 1/2, work an over, six trellis stitches and an under. Return to the 18th pleat and beginning on row 11 1/2, work an under cable, six trellises up and a down cable to complete the figure.

13. Work a row of undulating running stitches between rows 10 1/2 and 11 1/2. Each stitch should cover one pleat

14. Remove gathering threads. Block and insert completed piece into your garment according to pattern directions.

As always, you are welcome to share this design with friends but please credit my website and do not repost it or use it for commercial purposes. Enjoy!